The Elements of Cooking is a narrative about translating the Chef’s Craft for Every
Kitchen (the subtitle). In Anthony Bourdain’s
introduction, he says “It’s useful these days when everyone, it seems, has an
opinion about food, to know what the hell you’re talking about.” Bourdain pays Ruhlman a great
compliment when he goes on to write “It’s all here. In much the same way as
Strunk and White’s classic, The Elements
of Style, became an essential reference text on every writer and
journalist’s desk, The Elements of
Cooking should sit atop every refrigerator.” Sort of. Most people don’t
create their own recipes, and that’s what you have to do if you use this book. Ruhlman dives right in with “Notes
on Cooking: From Stock to Finesse” and gives us an entire chapter on stock. You
need the foundation of a good stock and nothing is better than your own stock
that you always have on hand so you can create beautiful food. For stock you need
good fresh ingredients (meaty bones that have been roasted) and very low heat
(below a simmer). Use some herbs, carrots, and onions for flavor. The best and
most versatile stock is veal, which I will never make, but Ruhlman reflects on
it and even includes a recipe for a good veal stock. If I owned my own
restaurant or cooked nightly for lots of people, I might have my own stock
because I like the idea of starting with the basics. I take note that Ruhlman also
suggests reading The French Laundry
Cookbook and The Zuni Café Cookbook.
Thank you, Michael. But he says “On Food
and Cooking: the Science and Lore of the Kitchen by Harold McGee is “the most
important book about food and cooking ever written, probably in any language,
probably that ever will be, at least in my lifetime.” In reviewing this book, I see how helpful
Ruhlman’s book is. He really did try to cover it all--and I've ordered a copy for my kitchen.
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